The first time I tasted an aged traditionale (traditional) balsamic vinegar, I felt like I had discovered something new. I was asked to hold a little coffee spoon so that my sister, who lives in the North of Italy, could pour several heavy drops of a dark, shiny syrup on it from a small and heavy flask. What began as a simple contrast between sweet and sour, deepened into penetrating layers of flavours that mingled the aromas of wood, dried fruit and cherry in a well balanced acidity. It still is hard for me to describe how an aged balsamic vinegar really tastes. More like wine than vinegar, genuine balsamico gets complex flavor from lengthy aging in lots of wood casks.
Named after the province and region of its origin, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia is a balsamic vinegar obtained by fermenting and refining cooked grapes of the Lambrusco and Trebbiano varieties. The juice is boiled down to approximately 30% of their original volume, at 180° to195°F (82 to 90C) for 24 to 48 hours, turning into a thick syrup called mosto cotto. The mosto cotto has to reach a minimum sugar concentration of 30% (brix). Next step is to ferment with a slow aging process – minimum period of 12 years – stored in wooden casks which further concentrates the flavours. Built in decreasing volumes from about 100 to 10 liters, the wooden casks are arranged in a series of sizes called battery. Casks are usually made of oak, chestnut, mulberry, ash, cherry, and juniper. Each cask is filled to about 80 percent of its capacity, and a porous cloth is draped over the large, squared opening. The large opening encourages evaporation. Over the years the flavours intensifies as during this period, a portion of the vinegar evaporates. Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia differentiates the three ages of their balsamic vinegar by label color: Bollino Aragosta (Red seal) is for vinegar that’s been aged for at least 12 years; Bollino Argento (Silver seal) means that the vinegar has aged for at least 18 years, and lastly – Bollino Oro (Gold seal) is considered to be the best of the best and designates aceto balsamico which has aged for 25 years or even more.
In North of Italy, in the region of Emilia-Romagna, Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI are often served in drops on top of chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or on mortadella. It is also used to enhance the taste of steaks, scallops, shrimps, pastas, risottos, fruits, and gelato.
Imitations
Nowadays it is very easy to find at supermarkets several brands of balsamic vinegar that claims to be vintage. Unfortunately there are no North American standards to regulate and identity balsamic vinegars. Even worst, domestically produced ones have plenty of industrial caramel colours, artificial aromas and artificial flavours on their composition. They are packed in all sort of bottles, labelled in a way to resemble and Italian product, sold for different prices and are years light away of the real thing in terms of quality. These imitations may be adequate for a weekend barbecue vinaigrette only.
In Italy, standards adopted and administered by consortia in Modena and Reggio Emilia govern every aspect of how this particular vinegar is produced and aged, including bottle shape and even the foil that covers the cap. An authentic balsamic vinegar has to be labeled as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena or di Reggio Emilia. It must be aged for a minimum of 12 years in wooden casks and be approved by master tasters. Small bottles of tradizionale balsamic vinegar sells from $75 to $400.
Less expensive alternatives
In contrast to Aceto Balsamic Tradizionale is Aceto Balsamico di Modena, which is essentially an imitation of the Tradizionale. Aceto Balsamico di Modema is widely used and commonly found on restaurant tables across Europe. Aceto Balsamico di Modena is produced in the neighboring provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia. The Aceto Balsamico Traditionale is incomparably more expensive than regular Aceto Balsamico di Modena because of the high purity requirements and a much longer aging process. It may or may not undergo two complete fermentations, may or may not be aged in wood, and doesn’t undergo lengthy aging. Often it’s a concoction of concentrated grape juice mixed with strong vinegar and caramel coloring. Most balsamic vinegars available in America fall into this category. The packaging, which frequently includes fancy bottle shapes, sealing wax, claims of age, and images of dusty dukes, often promises more than it delivers. In fairness, not all are bad, but the best way to judge is by tasting.
Balsamic vinegar in the kitchen
My friends in Italy have taught me how to think about balsamic vinegar in the kitchen. Cooks and devotees use both Aceto Balsamic Tradizionale is Aceto Balsamico di Modena, and they often speak of the age of these vinegars. Balsamic vinegar is always a blend of the new and the old; vintage designation does not apply to balsamic vinegar the way it does to wine. If a year is marked on the bottle, it refers to the year that the barrel battery was started.
High-quality balsamic vinegar, whether young or old, is best enjoyed simply. Here are some ways to try it.
- Whisk young balsamic vinegar with shallots, extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. Toss the vinaigrette with a salad of radicchio, frisée, arugula, dandelion greens, crisped pancetta, and toasted walnuts; top with thin shards of aged Parmesan.
- Drizzle middle-aged balsamic vinegar just before serving over risotto made with leeks, white wine, turkey stock, Parmesan, or aged beef tenderloin that has been seasoned with salt and pepper and seared in a cast-iron skillet.
- Spoon old balsamic vinegar over pears baked in simple syrup and accompanied by a dollop of fresh sheep’s milk ricotta cheese.
25+ years old vinegar is called extra-vecchio. It possesses flavors, texture, and complexity that only very long aging can confer. Extra-vecchio ennobles just about any food deserving of its company. It would be a waste to mix very old balsamic vinegar with other ingredients or to pair it with highly spiced foods or complicated flavors. Its sapid perfume is best released on warm or at least room-temperature foods. It stands best alone and reveals its full potential used sparingly on unadorned prime cuts of beef, fish, poultry, or veal. Certain fruits in their prime of ripeness deserve an extra-vecchio balsamic vinegar — pears, wild strawberries, and peaches are exquisite, as are mild, creamy cheeses such as fresh ricotta. Perhaps the best way to enjoy old balsamic vinegar is to pour yourself a teaspoon full after dinner and savor it all by itself.